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Just as a note, I am writing this on April 26, 2011 (and not whenever it is posted) because I am currently sitting in the Newark Airport and I don’t want to pay for WiFi. Beyond that, I actually decided that I want to write something for the blog during my 1.5 hour remaining wait. I thought I would take advantage of the spirit of the moment and write this to post later, especially because I’ve been up to quite a lot this past week.
Some of those things I will not write about extensively. One of the main reasons that I wanted to stop by New York was to visit family that I haven’t seen in five years – 15 yrs. old to 20 yrs. old is a significant change. There is much to say about family visits, but perhaps not much to say on a public blog. I was also tempted to make a stop here because it is so close to New York, and because I had the overwhelming urge to explore a part of my own country before searching for things foreign, abroad. You can find many things that are foreign in one’s own country; consider that the flight to the east coast was about the same length a journey as the ocean-crossing I am presently anticipating. The goal originally was to stay with my cousin Becky on my dad’s side in NYC, but conflicting plans made it so I got even more of a tourist’s – no, wanderer’s – perspective. I say wanderer in part to be pretentious/romantic about my plans, though I really did avoid most of the stereotypically tourist areas. And of course, I was travelling alone.
Itinerary (times estimated):
9 am – left New Providence, NJ on 1 hr train ride into the city
10 am – met up with cousin (other cousin, Hilary, on my mom’s side; 2 yrs. older than me) for breakfast; ate somewhat expensive waffles in Howard Square
11 am – subway initiation! Accidentally get on express train uptown in my efforts to reach central Central Park; decide to head to The Cloisters instead; see the infamous unicorn tapestries – please may Morielle be reading this post
12 pm – 2 pm – After exiting subway and walking about 15 blocks through Washington Parks and the park at Fort Tryon, I visit The Cloisters; discover that admission also applies to main branch of the Metropolitan Museum à more options!
2 – 3 pm – Once again board an express train accidentally to arrive at the lower western corner of Central Park; decide to walk to the Met (which I wanted to do anyways) though it is pouring rain, and it’s windy; see the lake and Belvedere Castle along the way – at this point, I’m feeling that my sojourn has been remarkably medieval
3 – 4:30 pm – Eat delicious cinnamon raisin pretzel in front of the Met then enter; coolest exhibit: “A Room with A View” on 19th century painters’ experiments of including windows in paintings, sometimes making them the primary subject **reminder – look up quote from exhibition**
4:30 – 5 pm – Journey to hostel, including brief and successful subway ride and a soaking, solitary walk across Central Park in order to get to a convenient station; at this time my boots are soaked and I look like a wet poodle, as my hair has curled and frizzed to the extreme in the humidity and wind
5 pm – put stuff under my bed in female dormitory with 12 other occupants; those who are there at the time speak French and ignore the wet poodle
6 pm – escape from the hostel to dinner; when in Harlem… eat African food!! Delicious Ethiopian cuisine on the corner of 113th and Frederick Douglas; eating alone at a somewhat classy restaurant I exhibited the habits of a middle aged man but the appearance of a conspicuously white, grungily attired student (when in New York, eh?...)
7 pm – return to social isolation in hostel and wet boots; decide to go to read a little then go to bed early so as to wake up early and do exciting things when I feel comfortable walking around Harlem – in the daylight
9 pm – awakened by German hostel-mate who bemoans that the concierge (if you call them that, in a hostel) didn’t them my bed on the bottom of the bunk; I am half asleep and don’t care anyways, so I offer to take the top bunk though the mattress, I discover, is significantly less comfortable and makes me feel liable to fall through it; at least everything is very clean
That evening I vaguely, VAGUELY remember the sounds of the other women coming in from late nights of clubbing – things I suppose I might be interested in if I was there with somebody else. MAYBE. More likely swing dancing – the historical sight of the famous Savoy Ballroom is not too far away! – though I thought I should probably get a good deal of sleep anyways for the subsequent day of travelling. In regards to any disruption from the other inhabitants tumbling in at odd hours, I got my ‘revenge’ when…
7 am – alarm goes off! I leave somewhat stealthily to get breakfast at Amy Ruth’s, a local Harlem place know for its Southern; my waffles with apples were served with a complementary biscuit and were infinitely more delicious than my waffle in Harold Square
8 – 9 am – walk around Northern Central Park and discover Central Park in sunlight; dogs and dog walkers are everywhere; the water was perhaps dirtier than in the lower lake, but to me Harlem Meer was the most beautiful part of Central Park
9 am – 10:30 am – walk to Columbia University and Grant’s Tomb; get a cappuccino
10:45 am – 12:45 pm – Palm Sunday service at the Riverside Church, a bastion for liberal Christianity in the east (not far from Union Theogical Seminary); the sermon wasn’t particularly strong, considering it was an interim minister as well, though I really appreciated the Prayers of the People; waved palms to the sound of African drums; decidedly the best racially integrated service I have ever been to
12:45 – realize that I am probably going to miss my 1:11 train, so I stop by Times Square for a tourist moment and two tantalizing slices of NY pizza; those flavors lingering on my tongue, I am convince that NY beats Chicago
2:11 – board train back to NJ
Four hours later, I’m waiting in the airport for a red eye to London. LONDON!!
Now, for some philosophical and psychological ramblings that are necessary after rambling in a city. Whenever I visit a place, I am always stressed to ask if I did enough; if I should have done more or just, differently. I’m fortunate in that I’ve been the tourist in NYC before, when I was just a kid, to hit all the main attractions. I never made it to the World Trade Center before 2001, which I still regret. I didn’t visit the Ground Zero this time, which I possibly regret. It is only the slightest of regrets though. The kind that you feel when you accidentally order a different kind of pizza than the one you expected, for example. Still, it’s a tasty slice of pizza and you know you couldn’t have ordered every slice. Some people would call my uptown-bound itinerary dull. At one point along the way I was also beginning to things so – somewhere along the path between Columbus Circle and Belvedere Castle when I was trying to cross the span of 25-some blocks with an insufficient umbrella and boots. Nevertheless, I have to say that my favorite things about visiting New York were the mundane things. Not even visiting the Met, which is mundane by clubbing standards. I enjoy the really mundane things, like walking down Frederick Douglas Boulevard at 7:30 am past piles of damp homeless crud and dozens of blown-out umbrellas (I am now convinced that Harlem is an umbrella cemetery). I enjoy hiding my camera deep in my backpack and feeling that I could pass as a local, walking confidently through primarily black neighborhoods with boarded up shop fronts and trying to ignore my exhausted feet. Later, passing crowds in Times Square like a NY taxi passes minivans with out-of-state licenses. I am probably romanticizing it, but if using imagination makes my travel experiences even better then why not?
The whole time I couldn’t help but think of San Francisco (as you probably know, I’m a big fan). I found myself watching sports attendees wearing blue and red jerseys on the subway and wishing that they were orange and grey. I found myself wishing that Central Park was just a little less charted. Manhattan is huge – far larger than I even remembered. I could imagine myself living there someday, for a short while. But for now, New York mostly gives me nostalgia for a place that feels like home. And then I worry that maybe I’m romanticizing that too, and I’m leaving on an airplane in 50 minutes, and I’m a little thirsty, and I’m going to a foreign country, and maybe I don’t know what home is, my home.
So I’ll probably give myself a cliché and listen to my ipod when I’m finished with this post and turn on ‘Home’ by Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros. And, yes, it’s a cliché. But maybe it’s also truth. I love you, friends and family. Happy belated birthday, Liesl!
Heidi, our great Romantic hero, explores the sights and sounds of the big city... one last burst of American color before submerging herself in a more Continental one. Where will we find our hero next? Eating scones in charming tea house? Enjoying the comforts of a solitary room complete with fireplace? Only can time can tell.
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